By Wendy Dager
(www.VintagePurseGallery.com)
This article originally appeared in the August 2009 issue of Antiques & Collecting Magazine. It is reprinted here by permission of Wendy Dager.
Collectible and affordable, 1950s and 1960s designer purses are a must-have for both the diehard vintage clothing aficionado and the adventurous fashionista.
When it comes to making handbag history, there are names that will always remain standouts: The Kelly, a Hermès creation named for actress Grace Kelly; the Collins, a variety of painted and bejeweled wood boxes and fabric totes designed by Texas artist Enid Collins; and the Lucite, a hard-sided plastic box bag made in a variety of shapes by 1950s designers such as Wilardy, Llewellyn, Rialto and others.
Much has been written about these classics, but there are unsung heroes of purse fashion that deserve credit for their wit, whimsy and wonderfulness.
collection of Wendy Dager.
Topping the list of handbag heroes is Midas of Miami, a company that was based in Florida, like so many mid-century designers. One can only speculate as to why Florida was a desirable locale for their creations, but the materials used in Midas bags offer a glimpse into the ocean-side environs. Generally made of wicker, giving them a sun-soaked tourist feel, the purses are often painted white and sometimes black—or, in some cases, left au naturale, but always have an embellishment that makes them a breathtaking concoction of wearable art.
A common example of a Midas bag is a white-painted, picnic-style hamper, with their trademark gold-and-white braided handles, satin-lined interior, inner pocket and Midas of Miami label. The basic bag becomes a work of art with the addition of glued-on seed beads, velveteen flowers, fabric panels, and gold edging. More elaborate bags even have clever little scenes. For example, there’s a Midas purse that displays its version of Aesop’s fable, “The Fox and the Grapes,” featuring a greedy felt fox with rhinestone eyes, pining for the milk-glass, three-dimensional grapes fastened above him on the front of the purse, as well as on its top. This particular bag and many other Midas of Miami purses are generally priced from $40-75, but some web sites and vintage boutiques sell them from $150-300, depending on the dealer and locale. Naturally, New York and Los Angeles-area sellers are higher-priced.
Midas of Miami from the collection
of Wendy Dager.
Midas of Miami is also known for its animal-shaped wicker purses, including the dog, monkey, elephant, fish and donkey. Dogs and monkeys are the most commonly available for purchase, although they are still a rare find, costing between $150-300. The elephant, fish and donkey—in their bejeweled, glitter-glued, gold-tasseled and velvety glory—can run even more than that.
While not practical for every day use, because of the potential fragility of the beadwork and trim, as well as the lack of space within, these purses are definite conversation starters whenever they’re taken out. Midas bags can also be found with a variety of applied motifs popular in the 1950s-60s, including poodles, turtles and horses.
On the less expensive end of the spectrum—but still a fabulous fashion statement—1960s designer Caron of Houston produced a handbag that is a sparkling addition to any wardrobe. A typical Caron purse, available online for as little as $5 and up to $40, is made of black stretch-knit fabric over a square or rectangular frame, and has added sparkle in the form of glued-on beads, faux gems, and sequins. Often, its use of mixed media features individual needlepoint flowers on mesh bases, along with tiny metal leaves and velvet ribbon, creating a busy visual feast for the eyes. Caron also made a gold leatherette hard-sided bag encrusted with contrasting gold trim, as well as beads, sequins and three-dimensional flowers. Out of character for Caron are its more whimsical, hippie-era designs, including a large straw purse with yellow woven raffia and shiny yellow vinyl side panels, closure and handles. There are sparkly gold woven threads within the body of the bag itself, plus giant gold money bag appliqués with faux amber gems and gold thread drawstrings. This purse, a rarity, can be sold of upwards of $50 at vintage shops.
Jolles was another '60s manufacturer that crafted bags in the style of Caron, but is more known for simple black trapezoid-shaped purses that often have a single large appliqué, such as a poodle, owl or flower pot with three-dimensional cloth flowers. Other, rarer, Jolles designs are the pineapple and penguin motifs. These can be had for $50-125. Jolles was much more diverse with their designs than Midas or Caron, and sold their appliquéd bags, as well as large tapestry purses, needlepoint wallets, beaded evening clutches and more. One of their most unique—and heavy—purses was the huge metal cage tote, which looks almost home-made, with its black-painted metal fence-like base, felt lining and wild-but-wonderful themes, including a Victorian-style plastic hand holding a bouquet of fabric flowers.
Dager's collection.
Another mid-century manufacturer that created purses that would appeal to a broad spectrum of fashion tastes was. The company made totes in the style of Collins, but also fancy beaded bags a la Caron. Notably, however, the company differed from the others with its scenic bags, which often had a vinyl or leatherette base, and included a picture window featuring, for instance, medieval ladies, a pantry full of bottled jams, or a country cabin. These purses cost from $20-$125 and are often covered in clear plastic to preserve their artwork and for easy cleaning.
Not quite as commonly found as Midas, Caron, Jolles and Sourè, but still as lovely, Faye Mell Designs of Miami had a diverse line as well, from classy to kitschy. Mell’s most desirable creations are her over-the-top Las Vegas-themed purses, available in both gold lame and wicker, and featuring a plastic "window," through which one can see the miniature cards, poker chips and matchbooks of long-gone casinos from Vegas’s heyday. These purses are quite rare and can cost up to $200.
While purse purists continue to covet The Kelly, Collins and Lucite bags, many fashion-savvy collectors will snap up the lesser-known designers, with the understanding that, some day, their names will be right up there with the others—perhaps not in lights, but definitely in beads, sequins, glitz and glamour.